It’s important to assess your skincare regime every few months or so. The needs of your skin can change, and so too should your regime.
Your skin can become “immune” to products as they may develop a tolerance for certain ingredients and formulas over time. I like to cycle and trial different products seasonally and depending on how my skin is feeling. I consider my skincare regime like a wardrobe with heavier, more occlusive products in winter and lightweight breathable formulas in summer.
It’s important to remember that skincare expires after opening. I would not keep anything more than 12 months, less for organic products. Always store your products in a cool, dark environment or the refrigerator.
With the above top of mind it can be tricky to know where to start when overhauling your regime – so I put together a guide for culling your products by skin type. MG x
Dry Skin
Keep:
- Oil based products (formulated specifically for dry skin)
- Antioxidant facial oil
- Hydrating serum (squalene and niacinamide and hyaluronic acid)
- Nourishing yet breathable moisturiser for day
- Rich and occlusive night cream (look for ingredients like shea butter, maringa and rosehip)
- Restorative facial mask
- Gentle enzyme exfoliant
Cull:
- Too many active ingredients! Including one or two in your regime can certainly be beneficial (the key is to look for gentle actives and keep it simple). It is important your regime is a careful balance of actives as well as calming and nourishing products that feed and protect skin. Avoid more intense active ingredients like salicylic acid and glycolic acid.
- Heavily fragranced products, as these may evoke irritation, flaking and redness.
- Alcohol-based products such as toner as these can be incredibly drying
Combination Skin
Keep:
- An AHA-based cleanser
- Water-based antioxidant serum
- A lightweight moisturiser
- Exfoliating physical scrub (to be used two to three times weekly)
- Salicylic acid spot treatment for blemishes
- A liquid exfoliant such as P50 by Biologique Recherche as this can be targeted to certain areas such as the T-Zone
- A variety of face masks – multi-masking is a great way to address different concerns for combination skin (target oilier areas such as the t-zone with a clay mask and dryer areas with a hydrating treatment)
Cull:
- Beeswax, lanolin and other occlusive ingredients that do not offer any benefits for oily or normal skin
- Drying cleansers that strip the skin’s surface
- Harsh physical exfoliants and scrubs
- Soaps – irritating and drying!
Oily Skin
Keep:
- Gel or AHA based cleanser
- BHA serum (to dissolve grime, pollution and bacteria – BHAs are oil soluble meaning they can cut through oil build up)
- Clay based face mask for oily skin (clay is great for tackling congestion and drawing impurities to the surface)
- Salicylic acid spot treatment for blemishes
Cull:
- Heavy products like rich heavy night creams and face oils
- Milky cleansers
- Sodium lauryl/laureth sulphate, a surfactant/stripping ingredient commonly found in products for oily skin – which can encourage excess oil production while causing irritation and reactivity and damage the skin’s barrier
Acneic Skin
Keep:
- An acid based cleanser (with ingredients such as salicylic, glycolic or lactic acid)
- Ingredients like Niacinamide, a potent antioxidant and Zinc, an anti-inflammatory, immune-boosting mineral to accelerate healing and minimise reactivity.
- A serum with Vitamin B5 and/or Hyaluronic Acid as these hydrate skin while reducing flare-ups and redness within the skin
- An oil free moisturiser and sunscreen
- A physical exfoliant
- A clay-based face mask (this can also be utilised as a spot treatment for blemishes)
Cull:
- Potent retinoids will aggravate inflamed skin. A gentle retinol may be integrated once any tenderness and inflammation is under control.
- Synthetic fragrances, perfumes and essential oils, which will irritate an angry complexion
- Sodium lauryl sulfate
- Comedogenic ingredients such as coconut oil, lanolin, avocado oil and beeswax.
Sensitive Skin
Keep:
- A gentle cleanser – look for an oil or milk based solution to provide extra nourishment and hydration
- A calming serum (look for ingredients like Vitamin K, niacinamide, Shea Butter or Squalene)
- Gentle AHAs such as lactic acid or fruit based amino acids
- A micro-encapsultated retinol is the best way to incorporate retinol into a regimen for sensitive skin, as it is housed in a carrier system which releases the retinol slowly over time
- A soothing moisturiser for day and a rich, hydrating night cream to restore skin in the evening
Cull:
- Sensitivity can be exacerbated by misguided use of active or harsh skincare products, so be careful when using these.
- Physical scrubs
- Stronger AHAs like glycolic acid,
- Anything fragranced!
- Retinol during periods of heightened sensitivity.
Every Skin Type
- Expired products – check the usage date of each product carefully. The expiry date is the number in the jar located on the back of the packaging, indicating how many months you have to use after opening.
- Everyone needs an SPF in their regime and there is one to suit every skin type. Always use a broad spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen to protect against all UV rays.
- I always recommend the below regime format as it includes all of the products needed to maintain skin health without being overcomplicated. Simply tailor the products utilised to your skin type and concerns.
AM Regime:
- Gentle Cleanse
- Antioxidant Serum
- Eye Care
- SPF Moisturiser
PM Regime
- Double Cleanse
- Corrective Serum
- Eye Care
- Moisturiser
2 – 3 x Exfoliate
Cull:
- Do not dip your fingers into jars as this spreads bacteria and taints the product
- Ensure your products are always sealed between use – screw caps on tightly.
